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Cook, Pray, Tour

Sri Lanka has been a wonderful experience, we have had the opportunity to visit many sights and relax a little as well. The country and its people have surprised me – everyone is open and friendly and smiling. Perhaps it is 6 years that makes the difference, but traveling in India with 2 of my girlfriends in 2010, we didn’t feel safe all of the time. We were constantly stared at and photographed and generally ogled by men, with women paying us very little attention. Here I have not had the same experiences at all. Perhaps, it is more likely explained in the fact that now I travel with my husband and not girlfriends, but I definitely get a different air about this small island, with its own identity, separate from its northern neighbour.

Collection of our favourite moments:

Whale Watching, Mirissa – (spoiler alert : 7 hours of complete nothingness)

We woke on the first morning of the ‘relaxing’ portion of our trip to blaring alarms at 4:50 am to board a boat for a whale-watching excursion. It was a boat full of other young travelers on the top deck and Chinese tourists on the lower, covered level, all looking forward to a morning of adventure. 7 hours later, we arrived back at port, somewhat haggard and sunburnt. We managed to be on the slowest boat in the history of time. We were passed by fishermen rowing and flying fish, even the dolphins seemed to be laughing at us. We approached the sight for the whale watching for what seemed like an eternity (where all of the other boats that left after us had already arrived). We could see the gang of boats in view 15, 30, 45 minutes passed before we finally ‘caught up’ to them. By the time we arrived at the sight, people were already panicking about their departure times from the port. The excursion promised to be a morning tour and many guests had to leave that afternoon on a bus or check out of their hotel, etc. However only arriving at the whale sight at 12pm left no chance of making those connections.

Once at the sight of the whales what followed was mass chaos of people running from one side of the boat to the other, cameras and selfie sticks in hand, hoping to catch a sight of a whale’s back as it breached. We managed to witness this a few times, but never could forage through the crowd well enough to get a good view. We had one monumental experience as a whale approached our boat and swam directly underneath us, slightly unnerving, but incredibly amazing. Luckily Lag had our Go Pro ready for this action, and we were thrilled to discover later that he filmed the great abyss – you could hear the excitement of the fellow passengers and the ooohs and ahhhhs, but no whale could be seen on film. One for the memory bank anyway. The way back left us all in full sun, with the European travellers all fighting for a square patch in the shade, arms, legs and bodies draped anywhere to keep our sensitive skin out of the direct 33 C degree sunlight.

Cooking Sri Lankan Style – Akuressa

 

Sri Lankan feat - JetLag style
Sri Lankan feast – JetLag style

We spent an afternoon visiting with a local tsunami survivor, who Lag’s family has known for 10 years already. His family sponsored her through school after the tsunami in 2005. Her parents and sister died in the tsunami and she was the sole survivor of her family at 10 years old. Her family had been traveling back from spending Christmas in Colombo. They were in a train when it hit, there were very few survivors of the trains that were struck by the tsunami, for obvious reasons. Today, Uththara is 21 and a beautiful, happy woman, living and working in Colombo as an accountant for a wedding events company. When she visited us, her adopted auntie and uncle accompanied her. They invited us for dinner the next day. We agreed to go to dinner at their place as long as they would let us help prepare the meal and teach us some Sri Lankan dishes in the process. What resulted was three young twenty-something girls, two aunties, one supervising uncle and Lag and I in the kitchen for several hours, sweating buckets whilst we learned how to make nearly every Sri Lankan dish known to man. We made string hoppers, pittu, fried tuna fish, dahl curry, hoppers, egg hoppers, bongee, pol sambol, katta sambol, cobra chilli salad, red rice and chicken curry (they had prepared this one before, just in case there wasn’t enough food?). Many photos and videos were taken, we were laughed at a lot, and translation apps were used to communicate our gratitude to the aunties.

This was such an enjoyable evening and we really felt like part of a Sri Lankan family. At the end when all of the dishes were lined up it was a true feast – and then they set out 3 plates, 3 chairs and 1 fork around the table and waited for us to dish and eat (including our driver). The aunties literally watched us eat with the biggest smiles on their faces and then kept coming around to try and dish more onto our plates. Lag suggested afterwards that he took one for the team (a lie!) by having about 4 helpings of the feast as the aunties served him. It was beautiful food and cooked with a lot of hard work from all. We were so fortunate to have had this experience and we were treated like royalty. For a family that lives with a very meagre existence, we understand that this meal is a very big expense for them and so very generous. They also never ate in front of us at all. When we finished and waved goodbye we can only hope that they went in and feasted themselves after we were on the road back to our hotel.

Blessing at a Hindu/Buddhist Temple at Seenigama

We arrived in Seenigama around lunchtime today and witnessed a procession of people praying and offering fruit baskets outside. We pulled in to see what was going on and it was explained that they do this offering every day to bless the food. As we walked towards the Temple, many people offered us fruits from their tray, which we graciously took a piece of. Lag was interested to have a blessing of our marriage so we walked a hundred metres or so up the street and found a food stall that was cutting fruit and preparing these baskets for offering. 400 rupees later (about $3) we had a basket containing 7 different fruits for offer (bananas, king coconut, passion fruit, sugar cane, pomegranate, apple, orange). We walked back to the Temple and paid a small donation outside to an administrator who wrote down our names and wishes on a receipt, we waited in line behind one other couple and handed our receipt to the Priest when it was our turn. He proceeded to serenade us for about 5 minutes in Senhala with blessings. We had our marriage blessed and also for good fortune and happy lives. He also gave us string to solidify the marriage by each tying a strand around our wrists. We also lit a coconut on fire and broke it together in a sacred spot as an offering for the prayers.

Preparing fruit offering for the temple blessing
Preparing fruit offering for the temple blessing

Once finished with the Priest, we took the fruit basket around offering it to people on the streets. Everyone accepted and always took one, graciously. We had probably about 30 pieces of fruit, so it took some time to find enough people, but eventually a truck with building workers piled in the back pulled up and we gave them the last of our offering which they gladly took. The final fruit left was a king coconut which we took back to the fruit vendor and he opened it for us and we were to each drink from the same coconut as a symbol of the union.

What was interesting about this experience was that it is a true exercise in giving and receiving, something that many people do every single day. For us it was a unique cultural experience where you engage with people that you wouldn’t normally have a chance to interact with in this way, but an opportunity for us to engage with everyone from the tuk tuk driver, to the truck full of workmen, to the man with one leg outside of the temple and to offer them something. This temple in particular is also unique in that both Hindus and Buddhists use it together. In our world of division, especially religious division, we noted that this collaboration is admirable.

Visiting the Foundation of Goodness

A dear friend of ours in Stockholm recommended a stop to see the foundation that she was working with for around 2 years. It is a wonderful organization that has been around since 1999 but was established after the tsunami as a relief centre for poor families and those in villages without much support. A local businessman donated his home to the cause and they have turned it into a centre for everything you can imagine in bettering the society. They have everything from pre-school through to adult education and women’s education; doctor; dentist; counselling services; sports facilities; a dive centre; sustainability store – a true enterprise aimed at empowering impoverished youth and adults alike. We met the doctor, who literally stopped what he was doing (checking a patients blood pressure) and with the patient sitting there ‘patiently’ arm still in hand, cuff firmly attached, he explained to us his work with the foundation. We also met the dentist on staff who said she travels 1.5 hours each way each day for work. Many of the staff have come up through the educational programs to become employees and many volunteers come for months to years to work as educators or facilitators. The dorm rooms for volunteers were tidy and empty at the moment, they are expecting 22 Kuwaiti volunteers to come tomorrow, they will stay for 2 weeks and build a library, including purchasing all of the books to fill it. The swimming pool is called Bryan Adams Swimming Complex as the singer auctioned off one of his guitars and gave the proceeds to the centre to fund its swimming pool. It is truly a marvellous centre for education, and we were thrilled to have been introduced to it, we are very proud of Quen for having played a part in its success. Even a few years since she departed, they still speak very highly of ‘the Queen’ and her reign with them.

Tomorrow we will travel back to Negambo where we will find a hotel room fairly accessible to the airport. We have a bit of touring to do on the way back, via the turtle hatchery and some temples, the tsunami photographic museum and perhaps some gemstone shops so we will take the so-called normal road vs the express-way – which is a marvel in itself. Sri Lanka has changed a lot even in the 3.5 years since Lag last visited in 2012. A destination that is becoming a tourist hot spot and soon to see a lot more traffic in that direction. With perfect weather, beaches for all sorts of activities (surfing, kite/wind surfing, snorkelling, diving, water sports…) a relatively small island that you could choose to visit many of the attractions in one visit or as we did, just see the coastal route for this first, but definitely not last, visit.

Introducing Mr. and Mrs. JetLag

Five days ago, we packed up our life into about a hundred boxes and put them in long-term storage with an open-ended destination, handed in the keys to our flat and ultimately gave up our corporate existence…for a while anyway. We have been living as expats in Sweden for three years and two years respectively.  I (Jet) joined Lag in the summer of 2014 when we began our lives together.  From that point on, we have been exploring Europe and other countries around the world.  We have been lucky enough to visit: Jamaica, Canada, USA, UK, UAE, The Netherlands, Malta, Croatia, Italy, Belgium, France, Switzerland, Poland, Spain, Norway, Malaysia and Bali since living in Sweden – God Bless European vacation allowances.  Travel is our thing and even in our vows last year we agreed to embrace the adventure of our lives together – wherever it may take us.  Our family and friends have often told us that we ‘should’ blog and write about our experiences, so here goes our first attempt at (w)righting that ‘should’ with a ‘do!’.

Now back to five days ago, we spent our last two nights in Sweden with friends and saying goodbye for now as we embark on our first 2 month trip as wanderlusts.  I now sit, sipping a gin and tonic, Lag with a king coconut (strategically cut to look like the face of a mouse) on night 3 in Sri Lanka, in a beautiful hotel in Bentota.  The waves are perfectly crashing against the shore, while there is some sort of squeal coming from a mechanical room below to remind us exactly where we are.  Perfection in its imperfection. Fortunately for me, Lag has a Sri Lankan background and has been to the country many times since childhood.  Between him and his father, we have our short itinerary planned with a mixture of family visits as well as some relaxation and adventure on the beaches.  Our first day, after about 20 hours of travel from Sweden via Dubai, I will admit we kept it pretty low key.  Our only venture out of the hotel was in the evening to go to the world renowned Ministry of Crab and it did not disappoint.  The ambiance is lively and the restaurant fills up quickly after its opening and first seating at 6pm.  We were lucky to get a table as we learned there is no such thing as a ‘walk-in’ here, fully booked every night.  We ordered two ½ kg crabs, one with chilli and one with butter, some pol sambal and leek fried rice.  We were donned in our very own Keep Calm and Crab On bibs for the evening experience.  Other than the mess and failure at crab cracking on both of our parts – surprisingly no blood was drawn – it was a meal to remember, well known to tourists, and the restaurant owned by a famous Cricketer as well – brownie points in Sri Lanka.

Yesterday we toured Colombo with our driver as our guide.  He took us past many Temples (Hindu and Buddhist), Churches, the harbour, markets (clothes, leather and fruit) and the train station, we drove along Galle Face Road (along the coastline) and past many famous Colonial era aristocrat buildings, now typically converted to 5-star hotels. A city filled with cultures, everyone a little bit curious of foreigners, but seeming to live in peace today.  Of course the country has its recent past being one of the most recent, long-standing and horrific civil wars of our time, but its people seem to be moving beyond this tragic time and working towards rebuilding the cities and roads at a high pace, welcoming tourists that are coming in hordes today.  In the afternoon we met Lag’s relatives (Aunties, Uncles and Cousins) who traveled in to the city to meet us for some drinks and dinner at our boutique hotel (notably: South Asia’s first carbon neutral hotel) with the most friendly staff.  It was my first time meeting the Sri Lankan side of the family and a mix of Sinhalese and English stories were swapped, stories of childhood cousin friendships, visits to Grandma and Grandpa’s home, teaching the Canadian the rules to cricket, years may go by but family remains.  Gifts were exchanged, Swedish butter knives for all – elephant statues, tea and jewellery for the new ‘duwa’ (daughter).  Many Lion lagers, far too much food and just enough laughter between family that is spread around the world with very rare occasions such as this.

Today is day 3 in Sri Lanka and we spent the morning traveling from Colombo to Bentota where we stay one night.  We arrived early afternoon and checked in to this wonderful hotel called Taj Vivanta.  We quickly dropped off our bags and again with our driver set off to pick up the next Auntie and Uncle in Itapana.  Lag used his trusty Google mapping to get us to the destination, unfortunately Google took us down a dirt track rather than the main road, which would have been a few hundred metres ahead of where we initially turned off.

Several deep potholes and bottoming out of the poor drivers new car, we felt sufficiently guilty for this request but arrived safely at Auntie and Uncles place, also the home of Lag’s grandparents which he remembers fondly from his childhood visits.  Again, more butter knives were exchanged, this time for fruit (bananas, papaya, coconuts) and more jewellery.  We packed Auntie and Uncle up and brought them to Bentota for the day.  This time we followed their car and took a much better route to the main road.  We had an afternoon having a very late lunch by the pool and catching up before they headed out around 6:30pm.  Tonight, we have walked on the beach, swam in the pool and now we have moved inside with our cocktails and listen to a maybe-karaoke-maybe-real band, current song Take on Me by Aha, with the keyboard perhaps set to classical organ setting, ringing slightly like church hymns.  He hit the high note on key though… Just so you know.

– Jet

View of Port Authority - Colombo